I stared down, the jagged contours of the Transantarctic Mountains beneath me, the soot-black rock peeking out from immense snowdrifts. Just over a sharp ridge that the belly of the plane seemed to graze, the vast expanse of the Beardmore Glacier spread before us. I’d been reading about this legendarily cruel stretch of ice since grade school, when my father handed me a copy of Apsley Cherry-Garrard’s “The Worst Journey in the World.” As Cherry-Garrard’s party approached “the great tumbled glacier” in December, 1911, he wrote, “we gathered that the Beardmore was a very bad glacier indeed.” And so it proved to be, pushing the explorer Robert Falcon Scott and his men to the limit, before the Ross Ice Shelf finally broke them.
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